Groupe de Haute Montagne (GHM) and Bistoon Festival

GHM is an elitist group of climbers founded in 1919 in France. The standards of entry are very high, but the group is not restricted to French nationals. It issues an annual bulletin of new alpne climbs . It is an influential and highly respected body in the climbing world. (Walt Unsworth, Encyclopedia of Mountaineering).
The Alpine Club of Iran, in order to promote the standards of climbing in Iran, started a cooperation with GHM in 2007 and signed a protocol with this prestigious organization. After performing two courses on big wall climbing in 2007 and 2009 in Polekhb and Sangsar, with GHM, now ACI in collaboration with Mountaineering Federation of Iran and some other organizations, is going to perform the "Bistoon International Rock Climbing Festival" in next October.
Bistoon is a great limestone wall near Kermanshah city, west of Iran.


A complete trekking along "Zard-Kouh" ridge by Araki mountaineers

 

Nazi summits (4120 m) Haft-Tanan summit A group of four mountaineers from "Arak" city succeeded to climb "Zard-Kouh" ridge, a long layer of Zagros Range in south west side of Iran.
"We started from "Cheri" Cole on July 15th. It took us five days to reach "Haft-Tanan" summit through more than 40 peaks around 4000 meters. This is a long trekking in Zagros, SW of Iran. In some places we should descend as much as 700 meters and then took the way up on the opposite side. The highest point was "Kolounchi" peak, which was about 4221 meters," told one of the members, Mohammad Jalali.


Tehran Mountaineers reached C2 on Mt. Nun

Male and female expeditions of Tehran province set up the second camp around 6100 m on east side of Mt. Nun, located in Indian side of Himalaya.
"Tehran expeditions set off on July 30th toward C1, which had set up on July 27th, the day after arrival in BC. Early on Saturday, the male and female alpinists left C1 in a good weather to reach C2. Finally after an exhausting attempt to put 700 meters of fixed rope, they all arrived in 6100m and set up C2, then headed back to BC, after a short rest. The summit push is probable in their next attempt," MSCCT’s official website reported.

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UIAA responds to Everest age restrictions


Successful rescue efforts on Mt. Damavand

A 53-year old mountaineer rescued on Saturday, July 24th 51 hours after his fall at 4800m on west side of Mt. Damavand. The event occurred on July 22nd, when Gholam-Husain Shah-Mir was getting back from Damavand summit (5671) on his 53rd birthday. He had fallen down for less than 10 meters on a rocky slope. More than 50 mountaineers were on the west route but just a few of them went up for rescue. They just could put him in a sleeping bag and a safe place for future efforts. Besides, Air rescue was impossible in that altitude due to lack of well-equipped choppers. However, a team of 3 alpinists reached the place at 7:30 a.m. on July 24th. Thankfully to god, he was still alive. After first aid operations, Ghola-Husain was carried down by a group of approximately 20 mountaineers to west route’s BC around 3500 m at 6:30 p.m., where a helicopter evacuated him to hospital.

 

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International Award for Neville McMillan

Neville McMillan - Chairman of the BMC Technical Committee for 17 years - has been presented with an Award for Contributions to International Mountaineering.

At this year’s UIAA Safety Commission meeting in Longarone, Italy, Neville formally ended his role as UK National Delegate, after 23 years. He had half expected some acknowledgement of this during the four-day meeting, but he was very surprised by what actually happened - at an evening public meeting for Safety Commission members, local guides, and mountain rescue teams, he was formally presented with a framed award from the UIAA for his “Contributions to International Mountaineering”, by the President, Mike Mortimer, and the Executive Board Member, Silvio Calvi.

Commenting afterwards Neville said:I really was gob-smacked when it was presented to me at a public meeting in Italy. When I started rock climbing at the age of 42, with an introductory climbing course at PyB, I never thought I'd end up with an international award!"

Neville was Chairman of the BMC Technical Committee for 17 years, from 1987 onwards, when gear was not as reliable as it is now. As UK Delegate to the UIAA Safety Commission, he was instrumental in ensuring that BMC research into gear failures was fed into the UIAA Safety Standards, and also into the first European standards (EN) for mountaineering safety equipment, which all safety gear sold throughout the EC has had to comply with since 1998.


Tehran mountaineers getting nearer to Mt. Nun


Five days after leaving Iran, Tehran’s male and female expeditions hope to reach "Kargil", north side of India on July 22nd.
"Arriving in New Delhi, Tehran mountaineers have visited Indian mountaineering federation before flying to "Leh". They had planned today to reach "Kargil", the last city to visit. Trekking toward the BC of Mt. Nun (7135m) will start in a day or two," told MSCCT’s head, Kaveh Kashefi.
Led by Mohammad-Reza Kafash, Tehran’s female and male expeditions include 4 women and 5 men picked up after an 8-round selection process. Expedition’s leader is assisted by two instructors, a doctor and a logistic supporter.

 

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Mahmoud Hasan-Zadeh won veterans lead competition

 

Mamoud Hasan-Zadeh won the male veterans lead competition that was hold in memorial of Farshad Khalili on July 15th at Taheri climbing gym of Tehran.
There were 11 climbers aged more than 35 from Tehran and Arak cities competing on qualifying route with 5.10bc grade, where 8 men managed a top and entered the second round. The second round has been assumed as the final but 3 climbers completely climbed a 5.11bc route and got neck and neck on points. Therefore Fatak Mousavi set a harder route as difficult as 5.12ab, where Abbas Mohammadi from Arak and Goudarz Nategh from Tehran respectively followed Mahmoud without any top out.
This competition had been organized by Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran (MSCCT).

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Alpine Club of Iran holds 90th monthly meeting

The 90th monthly meeting of Alpine Club of Iran will start at 5:00 P.M. on July 21st in "Shahryaran-e-Javan" culture hall.
According to ACI’s official website, the meeting will set by a presentation about a Farsi website that serves a room to everyone on internet to point out his opinions subjected to mountaineering. It is called "Wiki-Pakoob". Then this meeting goes on with a description about the International caving expedition in "Megalaya" region, NE of India, which was attended by erfan Fekri and Leila Esfandyari last February.

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Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship: Elnaz Rekabi won Women’s bouldering

Iranian star climber, Elnaz Rekabi won women’s bouldering in 11th national climbing championship, which is going on till July 22nd at "Polour" climbing gym, southern side of Mt. Damavand.
"Women’s open bouldering competition started on July 19th with almost 40 climbers from 13 provinces vying in qualification round and finished this evening, where 6 climbers were competing to achieve more tops on final routes. The finalists were Elnaz Rekabi and Farnaz Esmaeel-Zadeh both from Zanjan, Nasrin Abdol-Rahimi from Tehran, Sayeh Tajalizadeh and Fatemeh Jafari from Kerman and Negar Varshowchi from Hamedan," said comp’s spokeswoman, roya Fardi, "and it was Elnaz, who topped bouldering podium. She followed by Nasrin, the winner of 10th championship and Sayeh."

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